Reducing one of the greatest adventures to be had to these three words feels uncomfortable. Whilst in essence this is what is happening when setting out to climb all 214 Wainwright fells in the English Lake District, there is much, much more to it than your tick-list. Words and pictures by Greg Hackett.
Halfway through my objective it feels like I'm reading the best book ever written and I'm already trying not to think about the day I finish it.
Yesterday, coming off Burnbank Fell, a less trampled and undramatic hill next to Loweswater, I paused to open the app in which I am recording my progress with this project. Gavel Fell, Blake Fell and Burnbank will take me to 128 which in case you are wondering is 59% of the way there. It's always a satisfying moment. But I'm distracted by trying to figure out why Wainwright didn't include Carling Knott in his list, which rises above Burnbank and is the much more obvious target when coming off Blake Fell. I take this thought with me to the car park at Maggie's Bridge, where looking back to where I'd just been, Carling Knott again stands out as the main feature of this area. What was he thinking of? With the Wainwrights, there's always an expert somewhere who can answer your question.
These are the kinds of puzzles that are part of the Alfred Wainwright legacy. If Orrest Head was the fell that inspired him when he first visited Lakeland all those years ago, why not include that also? Why include Mungrisdale Common, the most unloved of them all? It's a boggy mound hidden in the depths of the Northern Fells (although the pinched view through to Derwentwater isn't bad). And is it true that he used to turn his back on other walkers and pretend to have a pee?
The Man Himself
I recently had the pleasure of meeting Jane King, stepdaughter of Alfred Wainwright and daughter of Betty at the Wainwright Prize event in London. She had just descended from the stage where she had talked about AW's books and how this Nature and Conservation Prize is such a fitting way to keep the Wainwright name associated with this genre. His books were not nature-writing as such, they are of course guidebooks for walkers, meticulously handwritten and illustrated. But it is clear they have been created by a nature-lover and his love of the landscape shines off every page, enhanced by writing which is sometimes ironic, teasing, perhaps even sarcastic, but always wonderfully Northern and packed with wit. Jane was clearly fond of her step-father, but I didn't get the impression they did much walking together back in the Kendal days.
So this is the first thing you can think about when Bagging the Wainwrights - the man himself.
Alfred Wainwright: In Summary
1. Who was Alfred Wainwright?
• Alfred Wainwright (1907-1991) was a British fellwalker, author, and illustrator, best known for his series of seven guidebooks to the fells of the Lake District, published between 1955 and 1966.
• Born in Blackburn, Lancashire, Wainwright developed a deep love for the Lake District during a family holiday when he was 23. This led to a lifelong obsession with walking the fells and documenting them in intricate detail.
2. The Pictorial Guides to the Lakeland Fells:
• Wainwright’s Pictorial Guides are his most famous works, meticulously hand-drawn and hand-lettered, filled with maps, diagrams, sketches, and walking routes for 214 fells in the Lake District.
• Each of the seven volumes is dedicated to a different part of the Lake District:
1. The Eastern Fells
2. The Far Eastern Fells
3. The Central Fells
4. The Southern Fells
5. The Northern Fells
6. The North Western Fells
7. The Western Fells
• Wainwright’s guides are known not only for their practical value but also for their charm, wit, and reverence for the landscape.
3. The Coast to Coast Walk:
• Wainwright’s second most famous work is the Coast to Coast Walk, a long-distance footpath spanning 182 miles (293 km) across northern England.
• The route begins at St. Bees Head on the Irish Sea and ends at Robin Hood’s Bay on the North Sea, crossing three national parks: the Lake District, the Yorkshire Dales, and the North York Moors.
• It’s one of the most popular long-distance walks in the UK, thanks to Wainwright’s guidebook A Coast to Coast Walk (1973), which detailed the entire route.
4. Other Walking Guides:
In addition to the Pictorial Guides, Wainwright wrote several other walking guidebooks:
• The Pennine Way Companion: A guide to the 268-mile Pennine Way, Britain’s oldest national trail, stretching from Derbyshire to the Scottish Borders.
• The Outlying Fells of Lakeland: This book focuses on the lesser-known, lower hills around the fringes of the Lake District, ideal for those seeking quieter walks or easier ascents.
• Walks in Limestone Country: A guide to the limestone landscapes of the Yorkshire Dales, capturing the beauty of places like Malham Cove and Ingleborough.
• Walks on the Howgill Fells: This guide explores the Howgill Fells, a group of hills between the Lake District and the Yorkshire Dales.
5. Wainwright’s Legacy:
• Wainwright is celebrated as a pivotal figure in fellwalking and British outdoor culture. His guides inspired generations of walkers to explore the fells and valleys of the Lake District.
• The Wainwrights: The 214 peaks described in his Pictorial Guides have collectively become known as “The Wainwrights”. Many walkers challenge themselves to “bag” (or summit) all 214 Wainwrights, which has become a popular goal for outdoor enthusiasts.
• Wainwright Society: Established in 2002, the Wainwright Society celebrates his life and work, organises walking events, and helps preserve his legacy for future generations.
6. Popular Works and Projects Associated with Wainwright:
• BBC Series: Wainwright’s legacy was brought to wider audiences through a series of BBC television programmes:
• Wainwright’s Walks: Hosted by Eric Robson, this series followed Wainwright’s routes up the famous fells.
• Wainwright’s Coast to Coast: This series follows the Coast to Coast Walk, showing the route in detail.
• Wainwright Prize for Nature Writing: Established in 2014, the Wainwright Prize honours the best writing on nature and conservation, continuing Wainwright’s legacy of celebrating the natural world.
7. Wainwright’s Artistry:
• Wainwright’s illustrations are integral to his appeal. He meticulously sketched fell outlines, stone walls, and summit views, often accompanied by descriptions that were poetic, humorous, and deeply personal.
• His style has inspired generations of artists and illustrators who focus on landscape drawing, and his original works are highly valued.
8. Wainwright’s Influence on Fellwalking:
• Wainwright is credited with popularising fellwalking in the UK, especially the Lake District. His guides are seen as indispensable for those who wish to explore the area, and his routes are still widely followed today.
• His emphasis on solitude and a deep personal connection with the landscape continues to resonate with those who seek quiet, contemplative walks in the fells.
9. Key Quotes from Wainwright:
• “There’s no such thing as bad weather, only unsuitable clothing.”
• “I’d rather be in the mountains thinking of God, than in church thinking of the mountains.”
• These and other Wainwright quotes are commonly referenced in the outdoor community, showcasing his wit and love for the fells.
10. Wainwright’s Publishing Style:
• Remarkably, Wainwright’s guides were originally self-published. He hand-wrote and illustrated every page, ensuring the books were a deeply personal project. Even the typography was done by hand.
• His unique style set his works apart from other guidebooks of the time, and it remains a distinctive feature of his books today.
11. Wainwright-Related Challenges:
• The Wainwright Challenge: Completing all 214 of Wainwright’s Lakeland fells is a popular challenge for fellwalkers. Some attempt to do it over a lifetime, while others, like fell-runner Steve Birkinshaw, have set records for completing the challenge in just a matter of days.
• Wainwright’s Coast to Coast Challenge: Many walkers tackle the Coast to Coast Walk in stages, often over 12-14 days, retracing Wainwright’s famous long-distance route across England.
Wainwright’s influence on outdoor recreation in the UK is immense. His books remain a go-to resource for both casual walkers and seasoned fellwalkers, and his legacy continues to inspire new generations to explore the fells, moors, and coastlines of northern England.
When I'm not pondering AW and his many idiosyncrasies, I'm often reminding myself of why I am doing this. And if you are about to embark on this journey, I would encourage you to do the same, before you set out. Because, let's face it, you are only going to do this first, once. You may repeat the journey, but getting it right first time will matter to you. So why are people Bagging the Wainwrights and what are the best ways to go about it?
Why am I Bagging the Wainwrights?
There is invariably more than one reason, but primarily the driver will be one of these: to incentivise regular exercise, just to tick it off, the challenge, to connect with a community, or as a structure for exploration. At one time or another, each of these drivers has been of importance to me, but ultimately, I think that climbing all the Wainwrights means that you travel to places you would not otherwise have visited and see things that you would not otherwise have seen. In the end, Wainwright was an explorer, and his books encourage us to explore.
I recently talked to Alastair Humphreys about his book 'Local' which by coincidence was shortlisted for the Wainwright Prize. In it, he uses the grids on a map around his house as a structure for exploration - over the course of a year choosing a square at random and heading there to explore. Each day out was followed up with some internet research so he could expand the day's learnings. It's an approach which can be repeated anywhere, unlike the geo-specific Wainwrights, but the principle is the same. My friend David not long ago (don't email me - it's the traditional archaic spelling!) 'compleated' the Scottish Munros, in his words, "To be sure I've seen the whole land".
The Wainwright volumes themselves of course suggest an order for exploring. You may choose to follow in AW's footsteps and start with all the Eastern Fells and conclude with the Western. This way, you may end up finishing your round on Starling Dodd as he did, which would be an odd choice as your final photo will involve a pile of twisted, rusty metal...
Wainwright began in the east, as most people will as these are the nearest to significant neighbouring populations. And the quieter Western Fells was his concluding volume, the seventh.
He was a stickler for order and symmetry. Each book is of a similar length and he has made efforts to balance the books. The Northern Fells, for example, includes fells that seem to be making up the numbers. Binsey is a bit of an outlier, and we talked about Mungrisdale earlier. Also, Blencathra enjoys an extraordinary 36 pages of forensic examination. A complex mountain, of course, but surely Helvellyn with its famous Striding Edge is its equal, but only gets 26 pages. The Eastern Fells perhaps have more going on than the Northern.
And if you are in a hurry of course, you can join the Fell Running Community, some members of which have managed to run all the Wainwrights in one go, an immense 352 miles. Currently the men's supported record (FKT) is held by John Kelly and for women its Sabrina Verjee, both having made it in under just six days!
Size isn't Everything
The breadth of experience is the second thing that occupies me as I walk the fells. I mostly go out on clear days to enjoy the views, and being able to see the skylines of the other hills and massifs that you have visited is endlessly fascinating. You begin to attribute different characteristics to each area, and its hard not to measure individual fells up against each other.
The 214 Wainwright Fells listed by height
Mountain / Region / Height (m)
1. Scafell Pike / Southern Fells / 978
2. Scafell / Southern Fells / 964
3. Helvellyn / Eastern Fells / 950
4. Skiddaw / Northern Fells / 931
5. Great End / Southern Fells / 910
6. Bowfell / Southern Fells / 902
7. Great Gable / Western Fells / 899
8. Pillar / Western Fells / 892
9. Nethermost Pike / Eastern Fells / 890
10. Catstycam / Eastern Fells / 889
11. Esk Pike / Southern Fells / 885
12. Raise / Eastern Fells / 883
13. Fairfield / Eastern Fells / 873
14. Blencathra / Northern Fells / 868
15. Skiddaw Little Man / Northern Fells / 865
16. White Side / Eastern Fells / 863
17. Crinkle Crags / Southern Fells / 858
18. Dollywagon Pike / Eastern Fells / 858
19. Great Dodd / Eastern Fells / 857
20. Grasmoor / North Western Fells / 851
21. Stybarrow Dodd / Eastern Fells / 844
22. Scoat Fell / Western Fells / 841
23. St Sunday Crag / Eastern Fells / 840
24. Eel Crag / North Western Fells / 838
25. High Street / Far Eastern Fells / 828
26. Red Pike / Western Fells / 825
27. Hart Crag / Eastern Fells / 822
28. Steeple / Western Fells / 819
29. Lingmell / Southern Fells / 807
30. High Stile / Western Fells / 806
31. High Raise / Far Eastern Fells / 803
32. Coniston Old Man / Southern Fells / 803
33. Kirk Fell / Western Fells / 802
34. Swirl How / Southern Fells / 802
35. Green Gable / Western Fells / 801
36. Haycock / Southern Fells / 797
37. Brim Fell / Western Fells / 796
38. Dove Crag / Eastern Fells / 792
39. Rampsgill Head / Far Eastern Fells / 792
40. Grisedale Pike / North Western Fells / 791
41. Watson’s Dodd / Eastern Fells / 789
42. Great Carrs / Southern Fells / 785
43. Allen Crags / Southern Fells / 784
44. Thornthwaite Crag / Far Eastern Fells / 784
45. Glaramara / Southern Fells / 783
46. Kidsty Pike / Far Eastern Fells / 780
47. Dow Crag / Southern Fells / 780
48. Harter Fell / Far Eastern Fells / 778
49. Red Screes / Eastern Fells / 776
50. Grey Friar / Southern Fells / 773
51. Sail / North Western Fells / 773
52. Wandope / North Western Fells / 772
53. Hopegill Head / North Western Fells / 770
54. Great Rigg / Eastern Fells / 766
55. Caudale Moor / Far Eastern Fells / 763
56. Wetherlam / Southern Fells / 763
57. High Raise / Far Eastern Fells / 762
58. Slight Side / Southern Fells / 762
59. Mardale Ill Bell / Far Eastern Fells / 761
60. Ill Bell / Far Eastern Fells / 757
61. Red Pike / Western Fells / 756
62. Hart Side / Eastern Fells / 756
63. Dale Head / North Western Fells / 754
64. Carl Side / Northern Fells / 746
65. High Crag / Western Fells / 745
66. The Knott / Far Eastern Fells / 739
67. Robinson / North Western Fells / 737
68. Seat Sandal / Eastern Fells / 736
69. Sergeant Man / Central Fells / 736
70. Harrison Stickle / Central Fells / 736
71. Long Side / Northern Fells / 733
72. Kentmere Pike / Far Eastern Fells / 731
73. Hindscarth / North Western Fells / 727
74. Clough Head / Eastern Fells / 726
75. Ullscarf / Central Fells / 726
76. Thunacar Knott / Central Fells / 723
77. Froswick / Far Eastern Fells / 720
78. Birkhouse Moor / Eastern Fells / 718
79. Lonscale Fell / Northern Fells / 715
80. Brandreth / Western Fells / 715
81. Branstree / Far Eastern Fells / 713
82. Knott / Northern Fells / 710
83. Pike o’Stickle / Central Fells / 709
84. Whiteside / North Western Fells / 707
85. Yoke / Far Eastern Fells / 706
86. Pike o’Blisco / Southern Fells / 705
87. Bowscale Fell / Northern Fells / 702
88. Cold Pike / Southern Fells / 701
89. Caw Fell / Western Fells / 697
90. Pavey Ark / Central Fells / 697
91. Gray Knotts / Western Fells / 697
92. Gray Crag / Far Eastern Fells / 697
93. Rest Dodd / Far Eastern Fells / 696
94. Loft Crag / Central Fells / 692
95. Seatallan / Western Fells / 692
96. Great Calva / Northern Fells / 690
97. Ullock Pike / Northern Fells / 690
98. Bannerdale Crags / Northern Fells / 683
99. Sheffield Pike / Eastern Fells / 675
100. Wether Hill / Far Eastern Fells / 674
101. Bakestall / Northern Fells / 673
102. Scar Crags / North Western Fells / 672
103. Loadpot Hill / Far Eastern Fells / 671
104. Tarn Crag / Far Eastern Fells / 664
105. Carrock Fell / Northern Fells / 663
106. Whiteless Pike / North Western Fells / 660
107. High Pike (Northern Fells) / Northern Fells / 658
108. High Pike (Eastern Fells) / Eastern Fells / 657
109. Place Fell / Far Eastern Fells / 657
110. Selside Pike / Far Eastern Fells / 655
111. Middle Dodd / Eastern Fells / 654
112. High Spy / North Western Fells / 653
113. Harter Fell / Southern Fells / 652
114. Great Sca Fell / Northern Fells / 651
115. Fleetwith Pike / Western Fells / 648
116. Base Brown / Western Fells / 646
117. Rosset Pike / Southern Fells / 642
118. Grey Crag / Far Eastern Fells / 638
119. Little Hart Crag / Eastern Fells / 637
120. Causey Pike / North Western Fells / 637
121. Mungrisdale Common / Northern Fells / 633
122. Starling Dodd / Western Fells / 633
123. Yewbarrow / Western Fells / 627
124. Birks / Eastern Fells / 622
125. Hartsop Dodd / Far Eastern Fells / 618
126. Great Borne / Western Fells / 615
127. Heron Pike / Eastern Fells / 612
128. High Seat / Central Fells / 608
129. Illgill Head / Southern Fells / 604
130. Seathwaite Fell / Southern Fells / 600
131. Haystacks / Western Fells / 597
132. Bleaberry Fell / Central Fells / 589
133. Shipman Knotts / Far Eastern Fells / 587
134. Brae Fell / Northern Fells / 585
135. Middle Fell / Western Fells / 582
136. Ard Crags / North Western Fells / 580
137. Maiden Moor / North Western Fells / 575
138. The Nab / Far Eastern Fells / 575
139. Blake Fell / Western Fells / 572
140. Sergeant’s Crag / Central Fells / 571
141. Hartsop above How / Eastern Fells / 570
142. Outerside / North Western Fells / 568
143. Angletarn Pikes / Far Eastern Fells / 566
144. Brock Crags / Far Eastern Fells / 561
145. Knott Rigg / North Western Fells / 556
146. Lord’s Seat / North Western Fells / 552
147. Steel Fell / Central Fells / 552
148. Rosthwaite Fell / Southern Fells / 551
149. Hard Knott / Southern Fells / 550
150. Meal Fell / Northern Fells / 550
151. Tarn Crag / Central Fells / 549
152. Blea Rigg / Central Fells / 541
153. Lank Rigg / Western Fells / 541
154. Calf Crag / Central Fells / 537
155. Great Mell Fell / Eastern Fells / 536
156. Whin Rigg / Southern Fells / 535
157. Arthur’s Pike / Far Eastern Fells / 532
158. Great Cockup / Northern Fells / 526
159. Gavel Fell / Western Fells / 526
160. Eagle Crag / Central Fells / 525
161. Bonscale Pike / Far Eastern Fells / 524
162. Crag Fell / Western Fells / 523
163. Souther Fell / Northern Fells / 522
164. High Hartsop Dodd / Eastern Fells / 519
165. Whinlatter / North Western Fells / 517
166. Sallows / Far Eastern Fells / 515
167. High Tove / Central Fells / 515
168. Mellbreak / Western Fells / 511
169. Beda Fell / Far Eastern Fells / 509
170. Hen Comb / Western Fells / 509
171. Broom Fell / North Western Fells / 509
172. Low Pike / Eastern Fells / 508
173. Little Mell Fell / Eastern Fells / 505
174. Stone Arthur / Eastern Fells / 504
175. Dodd / Northern Fells / 502
176. Green Crag / Southern Fells / 488
177. Wansfell / Far Eastern Fells / 487
178. Grike / Western Fells / 486
179. Longlands Fell / Northern Fells / 483
180. Sour Howes / Far Eastern Fells / 483
181. Gowbarrow Fell / Eastern Fells / 481
182. Armboth Fell / Central Fells / 479
183. Burnbank Fell / Western Fells / 475
184. Lingmoor Fell / Southern Fells / 469
185. Barf / North Western Fells / 468
186. Raven Crag / Central Fells / 461
187. Great Crag / Central Fells / 457
188. Barrow / North Western Fells / 455
189. Catbells / North Western Fells / 451
190. Graystones / North Western Fells / 450
191. Binsey / Northern Fells / 447
192. Nab Scar / Eastern Fells / 442
193. Glenridding Dodd / Eastern Fells / 442
194. Arnison Crag / Eastern Fells / 434
195. Steel Knotts / Far Eastern Fells / 431
196. Buckbarrow / Western Fells / 430
197. Gibson Knott / Central Fells / 420
198. Grange Fell / Central Fells / 415
199. Fellbarrow / Western Fells / 415
200. Low Fell / Western Fells / 412
201. Helm Crag / Central Fells / 405
202. Silver How / Central Fells / 394
203. Hallin Fell / Far Eastern Fells / 387
204. Walla Crag / Central Fells / 379
205. Ling Fell / North Western Fells / 373
206. Latrigg / Northern Fells / 367
207. Troutbeck Tongue / Far Eastern Fells / 363
208. Sale Fell / North Western Fells / 359
209. High Rigg / Central Fells / 357
210. Rannerdale Knotts / North Western Fells / 355
211. Loughrigg Fell / Central Fells / 336
212. Black Fell / Southern Fells / 322
213. Holme Fell / Southern Fells / 317
214.Castle Crag / North Western Fells / 290
The smallest of them all is Castle Crag, so let's spend a little time here as an example of what can be found when applying the 'size isn't everything' rule.
Wainwright describes it as 'magnificently independent', and notes that it is the only fell in his series of books that is below 1000 feet but is awarded the 'full treatment'.
The fell is notable for its dramatic views over Borrowdale and its quarries, where slate was extracted for years. The quarry spoil still forms a steep path leading towards the summit, adding a rugged character to the climb. At the top, remnants of an Iron Age hillfort can be found, hinting at the crag’s strategic significance in ancient times.
The crag also has a more recent historical layer: last century, a hermit named Millican Dalton lived in a nearby cave on the fell’s slopes, retreating from city life to embrace a more self-sufficient existence. He styled himself as the “Professor of Adventure” and spent summers guiding visitors around the Lake District, advocating for the simple life. Castle Crag is also a poignant site of remembrance, with a memorial plaque for local men who lost their lives during the First World War, adding yet another layer to this storied peak.
Steeped in History and the Unexpected
And here is another walking theme - history. Where else are there so many stories? The Lake District and its fells boast a unique combination of geography, culture, and human activity over thousands of years. Wainwright Baggers are treading on treasured ground.
A Brief History of the Lake District
The Lake District is steeped in history and stories due to a unique combination of its geography, culture, and human activity over thousands of years. Here are a few reasons why the region has become such a rich source of tales and legends:
1. Ancient Human Settlements and Natural Significance:
The Lake District’s striking landscape has attracted human settlement since prehistoric times. The area’s natural resources, like its fertile valleys, minerals, and accessible water sources, made it an ideal place for early humans. From Neolithic stone circles like Castlerigg to the remains of Iron Age hill forts (such as on Castle Crag), traces of ancient civilizations still shape the narrative of the region.
2. Strategic Importance in History:
Historically, the Lake District was a crucial borderland between England and Scotland, leading to centuries of conflict, raids, and power struggles. Castles like Carlisle Castle and Pele towers were built to defend against Scottish invaders. This turbulent history fuelled many local legends and stories of battles, heroes, and conflicts.
3. Mining and Quarrying Heritage:
The region’s rich deposits of slate, copper, lead, and graphite (used to make pencils) have been mined since Roman times, and this industrial activity left a deep cultural imprint. Many stories revolve around the mining communities, quarries, and the lives of the miners, including the legends of honest working folk and tales of hardship in remote villages.
4. The Romantic Movement and Poetic Inspiration:
In the late 18th and 19th centuries, the Lake District became a focal point for the Romantic poets—most famously William Wordsworth, Samuel Taylor Coleridge, and later, John Ruskin and Beatrix Potter. Their works were inspired by the landscape’s beauty, its connection to nature, and the idea of a simple, rural life. Wordsworth, in particular, romanticised the area’s traditions, legends, and folk tales, embedding the Lake District’s cultural significance in British literature. This cemented the Lakes as a land of inspiration, creativity, and storytelling.
5. Folklore and Myth:
The rugged, often isolated nature of the Lake District gave rise to rich folklore and myth. Remote valleys, eerie lakes, and mist-covered mountains provided fertile ground for stories of giants, spirits, and mysterious creatures. For example, tales of the legendary Girt Dog of Ennerdale, mermaids in Ullswater, and the infamous Boggles (supernatural creatures) are still told today.
6. Shepherding and Rural Traditions:
The long-standing tradition of sheep farming in the fells has been central to life in the Lake District for centuries. This deep connection to the land has fostered a strong sense of identity and culture among the hill farmers. Figures like Joss Naylor, the legendary fell runner and farmer, continue to embody the area’s relationship with its rugged landscape. These agricultural traditions have inspired countless stories of endurance, resilience, and life tied to the hills.
7. Cultural Preservation and Conservation:
The Lake District has long been a place where its culture has been preserved and celebrated. Figures like Beatrix Potter not only wrote stories inspired by the landscape but also contributed to the conservation of vast areas of it. She, along with others like John Ruskin, helped establish the National Trust, ensuring that the region’s heritage, both natural and cultural, would be preserved. Today, the Lake District’s status as a UNESCO World Heritage Site further highlights its historical significance.
8. The Landscape’s Mystical Appeal:
The dramatic beauty of the Lake District, with its towering fells, deep glacial lakes, and ever-changing weather, often evokes a sense of mystery and awe. This landscape can feel timeless, unchanging, and powerful, and it’s easy to see why people have woven stories and legends around it. Whether it’s the brooding presence of Scafell Pike or the peaceful waters of Windermere, the Lakes naturally invite storytelling.
9. Adventurers and Innovators:
The Lake District has been a playground for adventurers and pioneers of the outdoors. People like Alfred Wainwright, who documented the fells with such passion and precision, or Millican Dalton, the hermit who lived in caves and promoted self-sufficient living, have contributed to a rich narrative of outdoor exploration, adventure, and escape from urban life. Their stories continue to inspire those who come to the Lake District seeking both solitude and challenge.
All of these factors come together to make the Lake District not just a place of natural beauty but a landscape deeply embedded with history, human experience, and an endless source of inspiration for stories that stretch across centuries.
You may stumble across famous places, plaques, memorials and even aircraft wreckage that may lead you to some internet research on returning home, or if you are the kind of person who likes to know more about where you are about to visit, then Wainwright's Pictorial Guides feature all of these things and more.
I bumped into a chap on Glenridding Dodd the other day and we had a chat about our adventures - he had finished his first round in 2016 and was at it again. Something he said has stayed in my head. "It's the fells you expect to be boring that can surprise you". He was thinking of a buzzard that followed him off Sour Howes. I was thinking of a celebrity I said hello to on Holme Fell, and also an MBA bothy I randomly discovered in the Northern Fells.
These things can happen in other mountain ranges of course, but there just seems to be an extra dusting of magic on the Wainwrights.
So where to start and where to finish?
Most people will have already climbed at least one Wainwright before making the decision to complete the list. If like me, you grew up in the North and made many trips to the Lakes you might have forgotten the fells you have climbed in which case you may want to start from scratch. I decided to begin my record with Scafell Pike which I climbed as part of the National Three Peaks on a work team outing about 10 years ago.
Since then it's been fairly random, as visits, company and weather are all factors. But as time has gone on and my climbed list has lengthened, so my unclimbed list has shortened and I spend a significant amount of time thinking about where I will finish my journey.
There are a number of things to consider. Firstly, who will be with you? You might make it an easy one so more people will want to come, and you might want to be near a place with plenty of accommodation like Keswick. Dodd and Latrigg are good examples of hills that can be kept back for this special occasion - they have great views and are set aside from other peaks so you can easily steer clear of them until the big day. Something like Cat Bells for example, is on a ridge and you are unlikely to miss it early on in your campaign.
Or maybe you would prefer a big finish. I think this is where I am leaning. A bit of me wants to do it on my own, be selfish and leave something memorable and personal to the end. Great Gable, for example, so magnificently in view from Innominate Tarn on Haystacks, AW's resting place. Or maybe Robinson with its views of Buttermere.
Bag the Wainwrights! There is a community of fell lovers out there you can connect with on various social media sites, or join the Wainwright Society, and you can also find other fellwalkers in the pubs and hostels of Cumbria, always happy to talk. Leave no trace. These fells are for everyone and everyone must look after them, not only the wonderful people from Fix the Fells or other organisations caring for our countryside. Be safe. The Mountain Rescue Teams of the Lake District do a magnificent job, particularly with the unusual strain of millions of visitors every year, but this doesn't mean you should want to meet them. Equip for the mountains properly, be weather-aware, know your limits and mind your step.
When I do finish, one thing is for sure. As with my Coast to Coast walk. It will be emotional.
Footnote: LMFF in Cumbria
Our festival has a special relationship with the Lake District. Last year Community Events were held in Broughton-in-Furness, Askham, Ireby, Caldbeck and Oxen Park, raising money for community spaces, local charities and Mountain Rescue Teams. And since 2016 our parent business Top Munro has sold its Wainwright Trumps and Hillbaggers Playing Cards in gift and outdoor shops from Windermere and Coniston and Ambleside to Keswick.
#WainwrightBagging #BaggingTheWainwrights #214Wainwrights #AlfredWainwright
